The list began on-line in 2010.
Each list is compiled and published during December of that year and is neither in any order nor a list of trophies, points or repeats from previous years.
2025
Don’t let the newspapers convince you that no one is drinking for health reasons. Humans have enjoyed alcohol responsibly and irresponsibly for thousands of years and that isn’t changing on the whole. One difference at the moment in buying habits is that cellars at home are quite full and it’s harder to afford the good stuff.
1. Guffens-Heynen, Macon-Pierreclos, Deuxieme Vendange de Chavigne, 2021. Under the radar producer? Surprised that a Macon isn’t cheap or widely available? Well this is why. Definitely a wine and producer that can be described as, IYKYK, this wine has precision and breadth, thanks to 2 harvests a couple of weeks apart. Subtle oak, great fruit, beautifully balanced acidity… what more could one want?
2. Domaine Henri Boillot, Clos de la Mouchere (Monopole), 2002 / 2016. The 2002 was a conversation stopper without a hint of p-ox, propelling this wine into my Premier League. The perfect balance of freshness and density with a kiss of that Puligny difference. To cement my opinion that a great wine is great in any vintage, the 2016 absolutely sang.
3. Commanco G, Tumba del Rey Moro, Cebreros, 2017. Brought to dinner by a friend, who said, “I know you like Grenache.” I didn’t notice the cuvée (equivalent in Spanish?) before I took the first sip. I went silent mid sentence, in keeping with this year’s theme of conversation stoppers, and marvelled equally at the wine, the work involved in the steep vineyard at 1000m and my friend’s generosity.
4. Michael Candelario, Candelario Blanco, La Palma (Canaries), 2023. Tiny production and very much what one wants from this part of the world. On holiday in Tenerife, I had the chance to taste the wine in a restaurant. I immediately bought a bottle off the list and suitcased it home. Quite clearly benefitting from the (indirect) influence of the winemaking at Suertes del Marques, this 60% base of Listan Blanco + Albillo Criollo and Vijariego Blanco is refined, volcanic, bright and complex. One of the region’s best.
5. Livio Felluga, Terre Alte, Rosazzo D.O.C.G (Friuli), 2021. Not famed for making the world’s finest White wines, Italy nevertheless can claim this to be one of them. Fresh, volumous, textural with grip. A blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco, and Sauvignon Blanc, the floral aromas of hawthorn and acacia flowers are followed by fruity hints of tobacco, peach, hazelnut, almond and citrus. Closing with notes of custard, vanilla and honey. A delicate mineral note creates a taut, lingering finish, with a pleasing salty tang that blends nicely with the wine’s rounded, velvety profile.
6. Il Maronetto, Brunello di Montalcino, 2018. Sangiovese, having rapidly ascended the ranking of my favourite grape varieties, continues to delight with this near perfect example of Brunello. Pure, lifted, complex, red and black fruit, space, spice and earth, without any hint of over extraction. 2018 Central and Northern Italy reds are so easy to drink now. Now where is my bottle of Salvioni La Cerbaiola….?
7. Mac Forbes, Ferguson Vineyard (Woori Yallock), Yarra Valley, 2020. A delicate, bright, 11% raspberry dream that manages to deliver the beauty of Pinot Noir via an Angel’s kiss. I have always loved Mac’s wines and this does nothing to change that. Seek this out.
8. Marie Courtin, Le Blanc de Tremble, Blanc de Noirs, Coteaux Champenois, Aube, 2020. Another 11% Pinot Noir banger, but this time, a French White. Proof that higher alcohol is not a prerequisite to a good time, and the perfect pairing for one of my regular visits to Barshu, the finest 四川 north of Shaftesbury Avenue. Single parcel wine from Polisot, aged 11 months in amphora and bright with grapefuit and custard.
9. Champagne Paul Launois, Monochrome #5, base 2019. Never has a back label given so much wonderful information and something I wish that more producers did. Never to judge a bottle by the label (unless there’s a cartoon animal) this new to me producer delights with a svelte, pure, long 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay. Quiet sophisticated extra-brut Mesnil at its finest.
10. Ceritas, ‘Marena’, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, 2019. Ceritas, along with Rhys, Sandhi and Kutch, make one of my favourite West Coast White wines. Even though ‘Marena’ is the village wine, much like Guiberteau’a Saumur (Chenin), the village wine is my favourite for its crispy bracing freshness and long grapefruit tang.
2024
The beginning of Starmer’s Britain coincided with major changes in geo-politics, notably the Middle-East war, the fall of Syria and the return of Trump. Reasons for a drink if ever there was one and judging by the list, maybe the best year yet. If you spend all year drinking Coche and Calon ’61, it would be easy to deride this list, but like the multi-cultural society in which some of us live, the excitement is in the diversity.
1. Domaine Agisson, Sancerre, Equilibre 2021. The most surprising wine of the year and a revelation. Jean-Philippe Agisson`s domaine is located in the hamlet of La Vallée in Sury-en-Vaux. Jean-Philippe was for many years Head Winemaker at Domaine Alphonse Mellot. He moved to Domaine Didier Dagueneau in 2018, where he is currently Head Winemaker. Atypical, with a couple of blind guesses by friends as Chenin? Gruner? I suspect the wine will become harder to buy and more expensive very soon. I’ll quote Rebecca Gibb MW. “The 2021 Équilibre packs a lot of concentration in its light-bodied, light-on-its-feet core. There’s never any heaviness here, sitting calmly and silky in the mouth, without any rush. It’s an aromatic expression with an almost herbal tea-like character reminiscent of lemon verbena, chamomile and a distant note, as if an echo, of green gooseberry nodding to its variety. It has plentiful acidity, and in its youth, it remains a little tannic, but that brings a reassuring sense of grip.”
2. Niepoort, Turris, Douro, 2013. There’s only one Dirk, and while the breadth of his offerings is mind boggling, one thing you can be sure of is the quality and pleasure at every level. This is surely top of the tree and a profound drinking experience. Light on its feet, grand complexity and perfume, day long length from a blend of the traditional Touriga/Tinta varieties.
3. Niepoort, Bastardo, Quinta de Nápoles, Douro, 2021. A year for double-fisting Dirk, or more accurately a different bottle by Dirk each hand, this wine also is beautiful, complex, a bowl of earthy, leafy strawberries, that keeps you going back for more.
4. Josmeyer, Samain, Grand Cru Hengst, 2008. Not sure where to begin with this one. My note at the time was ‘one of the greatest wines I have drunk’ and that remains true. Don’t tell me you don’t like silky (bone dry) Riesling.
5. Domaine Lamy-Caillat, La Romanee 1er Cru, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2017. Maybe (not definitely) the best bottle of White Burgundy I’ve ever had. In keeping with my preferred style; weightless, complex and lengthy. Pre-covid they were little known and now in the stratosphere. I also drank the Cailleret ’17 this year which is as good with a fraction more heft.
6. Kutch, Bohan Vineyard, Salt Point Block, 2022. Something’s gone wrong somewhere when Kutch wines have not been previously mentioned. Well known as being top tier in CA., this is the freshest and most beautiful of the Chardonnays I have drunk by Jamie K. (Thanks to Jamie Goode for sharing.)
7. Vouni Panayia, Woman In The Wine Press, Paphos, Cyprus, 2020. Made from the Monokanella variety ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Last year, their village white was my go to holiday wine. I took a punt bringing a bottle of their top White back in the suitcase, and glad I did. Reinforces my opinion that they are making the best wines in Cyprus. I am doing both producers a disservice perhaps, but VP are the Envinate of Cyprus.
8. Domaine Guillemot-Michel, Charleston, Viré-Clessé, 2020. A label so pretty, you may choose it for that alone, yet this is another example of a weightless Chardonnay in the hands of biodynamic masters. They don’t make much.
9. Thibaud Boudignon, Clos de la Hutte, Savènneres, 2019. I drank a couple of glasses of this in 2021 and struggled with some perceived austerity. Time in bottle has turned this into electric rhubarb and custard, with density, majesty and length. One of the regions best.
10. Bodegas Tamerán, Verdello, Grand Canaria, 2021. Gran Canaria born football kicker and all round nice guy Davide Silva, decided to start a winery in the most remote place I’ve ever been. And I’ve been to the Cook Islands. The stunning location is like being in an amphitheatre on the moon. In the Sun. Made by the multi-talented Jonatan Garcia-Lima, owner of Suertes del Marques, the Verdello is the most elegant of a range of wines that have some hot-climate volcanic heft. I saw most people this year drinking the Marmajuelo ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ and Malvasia, but the Verdello is my favourote.
Honourable mentions for the divine Suertes del Marques, Vidona 2018, which is electric after some bottle age and Camille Giroud, Chambertin, 2010 which is, predictably, world class.
2023
A year when a UK Government had nothing better to do than stop some boats, while flying all over the place, demonstrating how little it cares about climate change. Which might explain why a terrific Ukrainian vodka from Staritsky Levitsky held such personal appeal, served at -18ºc. And Croatia adopted the €uro.
1. Camille Giroud, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2009, Gevrey, Côte de Nuits. Everything one could want from Pinot Noir. Demonstrating the heights this grape and terroir can reach, the perfume, texture and complex fruitititity come together to remind anyone why this sort of wine is some of the greatest drinking on the planet.
2. Az.Ag. Falleto di Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco ‘Rabaja’ 2013, Neive, Piedmonte. The first vintage where the fruit for Rabaja didn’t come from Asili, hitting the high notes from a legendary producer all the same. Depth, elegance, length, purity, with all the hallmarks of Barolo’s often more elegant cousin.
3. Domaine F. Carillon, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Murgers Des Dents De Chiens’ 2014, Côte de Beaune. The first of 2 wines, that undeniably prove you don’t have to be a bottle stroker to enjoy some of the greatest Chardonnay known to man. Possibly the best bit of dirt in St-Aubin and no dogs were harmed during production.
4. Domaine Du Pas De L’Escalette, ‘Le Pas De D’ 2019, Saint-Félix-de-L’Héras, Languedoc. I had 1 bottle of an older vintage tucked away thinking it needed years. Eventually bit the bullet and it was one of those wines you wished you’d waited for a finer occasion to drink it. Immediately sought out the latest vintage from Carte Blanche, which is possibly even finer. Ethereal Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault.
5. Domaine Gauby, Coume Gineste 2011, IGP Côtes Catalanes. The top white from this respected Domaine. Grenache Blanc can be quite full on. But not this fine wine which is fruit forward yet elegant, precise and long.
6. Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne ‘Les Mechalots’ 2020, Marsannay. A second bottle that the label hunters may eschew to their folly. A gorgeous single vineyard Bourgogne, textbook rhubarb and custard, from a producer no longer under the radar. Also drunk the rouge Clos du Roy 2013 which was completely delicious and á point.
7. Tenuta di Carleone, ‘Uno’ 2019, Toscana. It’s Chianti Jim, but not as we know it. A most refined take demonstrating how wonderful Sangiovese can be, especially in the hands of an absolute legend named Sean. The best barrels of the main wine.
8. Zarate, El Palomar 2021, Rias Baixas. It’s not a good top 10 if missing a Eulogio Pomares wine. A comparatively cooler vintage led to low and slow Malo, which gives this wine a wonderful texture and complexity alongside the prerequisite lime and lasers. Maybe my favourite El Palomar for years.
9. Vouni Panayia, Alina 2021, Paphos, Cyprus. Not necessarily a life changing wine, but definitely a holiday improving one. After extensive experimentation when on the island, this ended up as the thirst quenching wine of choice. From the best producer on the island IMHO, if you drink Suertes del Marques or Envinate on holiday in Tenerife, then you drink Vouni P on holiday in Cyprus. See Jancis’ write up.
10. Salt Of The Earth Project / Scions of Sinai, ‘Soutbosch’ 2021, False Bay / Stellenbosch, SA. Blatant bias here yet the wine is very good. A Chenin of texture, lasers, rhubarb, custard and length. Good now, great things to come after time in bottle.
2022
Despte a mini-budget this year, the Classics further take a turn front and centre. Perhaps as a result of the depth of personal experience, the allure of ‘new’ has waned and so led to a retreat to the familiar, comfortable and trustworthy. This can be said as much of wine as of travel, dining or even music.
1. Domaine Guiborat, Le Mont-Aigu 2013, Grand Cru, Cramant, Champagne. Looking back, I am surprised I have not mentioned this Sparkler before. Discovered the 08 over dinner in Paris some years ago and fortunate enough to obtain some of the ’13. A wonderfully pure, precise, fresh, complex, age-worthy Champagne, that of all of the Champagne I have ever drunk, this differs more than any other in flavour depending on the glassware used.
2. Domaine Fallet-Gourron, Extra-Brut NV, Grand Cru, Avize, Champagne. A trip for 1 night to Verona in April, for dinner with Greg Lambrecht the founder of Coravin, started with this sharpener. Deep, lively, precise Blanc de Blancs, that seems to be under the radar and punching above it’s weight.
3. Az.Ag. Ceretto, Barbaresco ‘Bernadot’, 2018. Another wine first encountered on the trip to Verona, at a dinner with the charming Federico Ceretto. Reinforces that I am, in general, more of a Barbaresco man than a Barolo one, yet often delighted by either. This biodynamic Bernadot is complex, classy, a light footed dark red berry delight.
4. Domaine Dagueneau, Pur Sang, Pouilly Fumé, 2004. I intended to include the terrific Les Jardins de Babylone Sec ’15, produced in Jurancon by Didier’s son, but this Pur Sang was a showstopping BYO from Christelle Guibert. A highlight of the year.
5. Minimimalist Wines, Stars In The Dark, Syrah, Cape Agulhas, 2020. Candidate for 1st place in the ‘absolutely no need to wait’ award, though you could. A fine wine can be drunk young or with age, and this wine is very fine indeed. It has swiftly become a wine of note among a certain crowd, aided and abetted by Neal Martin getting a chubby over it a couple of vintages back.
6. Domane Zind-Humbrecht, Clos Windsbuhl, Hunawihr, 2007 or 2014. Intensifying a love affair with dry Riesling, the length, complexity and weight of this wine marks it out as one of the greats. As though Riesling has been dragged through a house of Turmeric on a silk rug, the 07 metaphorically including a drop of Sauternes due to the bottle age.
7. Domaine Henri Germain, Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot 1er Cru, ‘Les Fairendes’, 2016. There is a small vineyard named Morgeot, separated from the main vineyard of the same name. This parcel joins onto the large Fairendes vineyard, hence the cuvée. This is the latest White Burgundy producer I have embraced due to the purity of the fruit and judicious use of oak.
8. Weingut Georg Breuer, Salz der Erde, Rheinhessen, 2020. The second wine from the Salt of the Earth project, by Ben Henshaw, Jamie Goode and yours truly. Produced to an exacting standard by the delightful, talented Therese Breuer, whose other wines are glorious too. One to age gracefully or drink now.
9. Eulogio Pomares, Castiñeiro Blanco, 2019. One is happily bumbling along, enjoying a bottle of Eulogio’s Carralcoba or Sal da Terra, thinking it can’t get better than this. Then POW! a newer cuvee bowls you over with the Pomares Albariño magic.
10. Weingut Keller, von der Fels, Rheinhessen, 2019 or 2020. It’s easy to have your head turned by Keller’s renowned Grosses Gewächs, yet this blend of young vines (from the Rocks) across those same GG vineyards is testament to this domaine’s greatness. Staying true to the motto that you should judge a producer by their ‘village’ wines.
2021
This year concludes with a variant that sounds more like a brand of hayfever eyedrops than a potentially fatal illness. There hasn’t been such a diverse vinous experience this year at Winerackd HQ due to a limited exposure to newness. Nevertheless, strenuous efforts were made to support wine makers and restaurants alike.
1. Calon Segur, Bordeaux, 1961. It turns out that I do like Bordeaux as long as it is classed growth from 1961. Still thinking about it.
2. Rhys, Chardonnay, Alpine Vineyard, 2014. I like fruit, just not too much, underpinned by acid, spice, weight and energy. Possibly the best Cali Chard I’ve had.
3. Basserman-Jordan, Jesuitengarten, Pfalz, 2018. A classic producer making ageworthy beautiful benchmark wine. The Riesling equivalent of the Rhys, in terms of power and precision. Another reminder of the adage, ‘great wine can be drunk young or old.’
4. L’Anglore / Famille Pfifferling, Véjade, Tavel, 2020. Not on the list at one of Paris’s best bistrots. The sommelier briefly dropped it into conversation as a test and our raised eyebrows sealed the deal. Ethereal, delicate yet profound Grenache/Mourvedre blend.
5. Weingut Wittmann, Kirchspiel, Rhinehessen, 2016. Recommended by Michael Peng during dinner at Hunan which is as good as a guarantee.
6. Camille Braun, Buchrod (vineyard), Alsace, 2011. Alsacian Germichter Satz of sorts. 7 varieties, coplanted and cofermented. Like drinking silk that’s been stored for a while in a spice market.
7. Mullineux, Granite Syrah, Paardeberg, 2014. With miles left in the tank, this joyous, lifted, spicy Syrah balances weight with energy. I flit between Granite and Schist depending on the vintage.
8. Niepoort, Colheita, 1997. A wine which supports my opinion that as a wine liker, I can find an example of any wine that provides extreme pleasure even if I’m not a huge fan of the category yet. I can drink a whole bottle of this, if I don’t mind not remembering arriving home.
9. Domaine J-L Chave, Hermitage Blanc, Rhone, 2011. Another wine style this year, that otherwise does not ordinarily appeal, yet this 80% Marsanne blend was profound and contemplative. Textural, floral, almonds n spice, yet fresh and long.
10. Patrick Piuze, Bougros ‘Côte de Bouqueyreaux’, Grand Cru, Chablis, 2018. A parcel within Bougros exclusive to Chablis’ most famous Canadian. Bougros, Jim, but not as we know it.
2020
The year which gave many people a new found appreciation for their own sense of smell, taste and when combined, flavour, especially if lost. My uninterrupted yet locked down senses rediscovered a love of bone dry Riesling. It’s the future and I’ve tasted it.
1. Sal da Terra, 2019/18. A wine that has Daniel Primack’s name written all over it. Well, not all over, just in one spot, along with winemaker extraordinaire Eulogio Pomares of Zarate fame plus Dr. Jamie Goode and Ben Henshaw, the instigator of the project and proprietor-in-chief of the importer, Indigo Wine. Albariño from 2 sites, fermented in 2 different vessels and blended. It’s as if Meursault visited Rias Baixas and left its mark. Try it, you might like it.
2. Ballot-Millot, Genervieres 1er Cru, Meursault, 2014. A love affair that becomes more passionate by the year, this producer and especially this cuvée is fast becoming part of the unobtainable club.
3. Montevertine, IGT Tuscany, 2015. A classic producer making ageworthy beautiful benchmark wine. Blue flower definition with violets and lavender segue to fresh dark fruit, spice and white pepper.
4. René Rostaing, Côte Blonde, Côte Rotie, 2006. A favourite of Paul van Maaren, chef de cave at Wine By Design. Delicate, pure, complex Syrah possessing extraordinary length with next to no Viognier in 2006.
5. E+E Vocoret, Les Pargues, Chablis, 2017. It is condescending to describe them as rising stars, because husband and wife Edouard and Eleni have risen. Pargues is their most precise cuvée, comprising lasers and crackling electricity imprisoned within a lemon meringue pie.
6. Bürklin Wolf, Wachenheimer Gerümpel PC, Pfalz, 2011. Many years ago I fell out of love with White Burgundy because, as one prime wine merchant described it, “you kept drinking crap White Burgundy”. I too lost a taste for even great Riesling because the residual sugar put me off. I fished a forgotten bottle out of the wine fridge this year and, low and behold, fell back in love with this DRY Riesling from the Crumpled vineyard.
7. Weingut Keller, Kirchspiel, Rhinehessen, 2012. An iron fist in a velvet glove. Dry, silky, precise, long, balanced and all the other adjectives that define a standout wine from a standout producer.
8. David and Nadia, Plat’Bos, Swartland, 2018. From vines planted in 1981 on granite, this wine combines steel and flesh in perfect balance with hallmark Chenin fruit flavours. Some of Swartland’s finest.
9. Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo, 2005. An unmissable opportunity to drink one of the most revered producers from a great year. Years left in the tank but resolved enough to provide astonishing pleasure. Thankfully still no barrique and no Berlusconi.
10. Köhler-Ruprecht, Kallstadter Saumagen, Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, 2016. A new name to me, introduced with thanks to Keeling Andrew. Providing another source of chiseled Riesling pleasure, the Spatlese having enough weight even in a cool vintage.
2019
A palate’s journey throws up more questions than it answers, meaning for some reason I have preferred to drink mostly White and Sparkling wine this year. Perhaps it is to numb the pain of the collapse in modern speech where every sentence seems to contain the word ‘guys’ when in fact that word is never needed.
1. Ornellaia, 1990. An estate needing no introduction which is an introduction in itself. Having lost the taste for Cabernet, this clearly Italian leaning towards Bordeaux blend shows what 29 years of patience delivers. A long, complex, weightless Red wine.
2. Raveneau, Butteaux 1er Cru, Chablis, 2010. The first bottle drunk on arrival, for a first visit to the town of Chablis. A breathtaking Chablis from the master of the region in a superb vintage.
3. Coche-Dury, Enseigneres, Puligny-Montrachet, 2012. Past Chablis, to a small village in the wilds of North-West Burgundy, the competitively priced list offered a contemplative wine. It is a remarkable wine that several others can almost rival at a fraction of the price. Nevertheless, memorable.
4. F.Cossard, Voitte, Puligny-Montrachet, 2015. A phenomenally bright wine, atypical of the vintage. Piercing, grapefruit meringue, yet balanced in equal measure. Long finish from an outsider of the region.
5. Chartogne-Taillet, Les Allieés, Merfy, Champagne, 2013. A newly found passion for 100% Pinot Meunier Champagne led to some disappointments and some surprises. This was the best kind, with its wonderfully complex, rich, spiced apple flavous and glorious energy.
6. Jacques Lassaigne, Haut Revers du Chutat, Coteaux Champenois, 2010. When is Champagne not Champagne? It always is, but not always sparkling. From one of the finest Domaines, another example of off-piste Chardonnay. Some similarities to the Cossard above, this was a conversation stopper.
7. Domaine des Roches Neuves, Clos Romans, Saumur, 2016. A Chenin Blanc with a thread running through it similar to the Chardonnays above. Silky, dry like the Kalahari, great acidity, gorgeous citrus fruits with a decent backbone.
8. Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino, 2011. Enthralling silky black cherries, unmistakable and light on it’s feet for the style. A classic beauty.
9. Thierry Allemand, Cornas, 1999. Another classic, of black olives, gravy, boysenberry and earth.
10. Crystallum, Bona Fide, Pinot Noir, South South Africa, 2018. A stellar example of how to deliver new world fruit in an old world style. Some density, very complex, fresh and long. Years ahead of it.
2018
The year made myself so humbled (ungrammatical contemporary vernacular to which many people succumb these days) by including Dauvissat ‘Les Clos’ 09, Fourrier Champeaux ’07 and Selosse ‘Les Carelles’. Classics are classics for a reason and the force is strong in those, yet the list below contains the more interesting or esoteric.
1. Antoine Jobard, Meursault, Genevrières 1er Cru, 2012. A name I knew without knowing the wines. Xavier Rousset brought a 2005, ‘Tillets’ village Meursault to dinner and my interest was piqued. I then bought a bottle of this Genevrières which proved to be a showstopper for all the reasons that White Burgundy should. Probably WOTY.
2. Els Jelipins, Rosado, 2015/16 Penedes. Majoritively Sumoll, this bright, textural, savoury, deep pink wine fascinates everyone who drinks it. Sadly only a few hundred bottles made each vintage as there is no rosé like it.
3. La Closerie, ‘Fac-simile’ Rosé NV, Gueux near Reims, Champagne. 1 barrel of 100% Meunier Red wine, blended with 100% Meunier White base wine, achieves remarkable, complex, delicately spiced light red fruits with an almost never-ending finish. I drank 3 bottles during the year which used up a good proportion of the UK allocation.
4. Lagravera, La Pell Negre, 2014, Costers del Segre. J-M Fourrier doesn’t make 500 bottles of Monastrell based wine, 100 miles west of Barcelona, but if he did I imagine it would taste like this. Perfumed, floral, precise, savoury and deeelish.
5. Joaquin Dall’Isola, Rosato ’11, Capri.. Guarnacca and Piedirosso, from the island of Capri. Sadly, only made 1 vintage by Raffaele Pagano of a wine that is pure orange in colour yet is not an orange wine. Herbs, tangerine and I have not tasted anything similar. Ever.
6. Agrapart, Venus, 2010, Avize, Champagne. Pascal’s pinnacle of Brut Nature Blanc de Blanc.
7. Daterra Viticultores, Azos de Pobo, 2015, Manzaneda, Galcia..Laura Lorenzo left Dominio do Bibei in 2011 to set up her new project. She is making fine wine that you can drink now or in 10 years time. Brilliantly done, Mencia dominant, black fruited goodness.
8. Quinta da Muradella, Garnacha Tintorera, 2012, Verin, Galicia. A randomly chosen bottle from a wine shop’s shelf, brought back to London. On opening, immediately wished I’d purchased more. Garnacha Tintorera, aka Alicante-Bouschet, a teinturier grape meaning that unusually, the flesh is red along with the skin. Elegant, fresh, beautifully weighted spice and loganberry.
9. Nicoletta de Fermo, Le Cince, 2016, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Inland from the Adriatic coast, directly across the country from Rome, the denominazione laws that apply to Cerasulo d’Abruzzo set it aside from a generic rosé. The Montepulciano grape is permitted no more than 3 days on skins but usually far fewer hours are used. This very light red wine, made Francesco Valentini think he was drinking his own wine. Say no more.
10. Paul Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet, La Grande Montagne 1er Cru, 2014. Book ending this list is the return of an interest in White Burgundy, having discovered the style and producers that appeal. This is the only parcel/cuvée that Thierry Pillot produces without new oak and thus the quality of the fruit and the talent of the winemaker is all the better for it.
2017
With so many social and economic upheavals experienced by so many this year, it’s time to retreat to the comfort of classic, beautiful wines as opposed to those which challenge and provoke discussion.
1. ‘Il Guercio’ from Sean O’Callaghan, Radda, Tuscany 2015. A profound expression of Sangiovese, composed of an etheral weightlessness yet supreme gravitas. Soft red fruit, brambles and truffled earth in perfect harmony. There are a few wines I use as a reference point and this has become one of them.
2. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Les Folatières 1er Cru, Puligny-Montrachet, 2011. Atlantis depth White Burgundy, with a kiss of new oak, bright acidity and a longer finish that a Bruce Springsteen encore. Drunk with a good friend for his 40th, who is a self-proclaimed white wine unenthusiast, said at the time, “this is a wine that just keeps giving.”
3. Eulogio Pomares,’Carralcoba’, Rias Baixas, 2015. The first release of this wine, from the man behind the wine at Zarate. Under his own label, this is the best Albariño I’ve drunk. With less oak than the wine above, the depth, precision and length is on par. Jamie Goode can explain.
4. Champagne Bérêche, ‘Reflet D’Antan’, NV. Comprised of a serious amount of reserve wine from a solera, this is one of the most complex, savoury, refined, fresh wines available. As one of Champagne’s leading growers/producers, this Domaine needs little introduction.
5. Envinate, ‘Benje’, 2015. From Envinate’s new parcel, 1000M+ above sea level in the North-West of Tenerife, close to the volcanic national park. A transparent wine of red fruit with a haunting perfume, the very old vine Listan Prieto (aka País) with a tiny proportion of Tintilla, captivates the senses.
6. Domaine Prieuré Roch, Rosés, 2014. An atypical rosé, orange in colour, with a mosaic of savoury stone fruit characters. Tiny amounts produced from one of Burgundy’s most exciting artisan producers.
7. Domaine de L’Ecu/Domaine Viret, ‘Fratis’, Rhône 2016 . One of the most creative producers in Muscadet, tag-teams with his friend in the Southern Rhône, to produce this bomb of a Syrah, from 9 months in amphora and zero added sulphur. A baby that needs years to unfurl yet excites today.
8. Luis Seabra, ‘Indie’, Douro, 2014.The maiden release of this sappy, crunchy, fruit driven blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Amarela with a healthy proportion of whole bunches. A wine with a long life ahead and my favourite wine from a talented winemaker who now consults at Suertes del Marques in Tenerife.
9. Niepoort, ‘Poeirinho’, Quinta de Baixo, Barraida, 2013. The Baga (means ‘berry’ in Portugese) grape at its finest. Stones, fruit, earth, in the most complex yet elegant understated way. Will improve over many, many years.
10. Les Vignes de L’Angevin, Nocturne 2014, Chahaignes, Loire. 40 miles North of Tours, is the creative energy that resides within Jean-Pierre Robinot. While his wines will not be to everyone’s taste, this squeaky clean old vine Pineau d’Aunis is in its infancy and yet crackles with drink’me now electricity. A wine of purity, fruit and vitality, it will convert anyone to this grape variety.
2016
A year that many would have preferred Camberwick Green to Trumpton or a Soft Breakfast over a Hard Brexit. A year that many a star of stage, screen and studio shuffled off their mortal coil and you couldn’t move for Mother’s Ruin. So it seems fitting to begin the list with…..
1. BASTARDA, from Fedellos do Couto, Ribeira Sacra, 2013. There is clearly something special about a region whose best producers (many featured below) manage to create art in a rugged yet picture perfect setting. 100% Merenzao (known as Bastarda in Portugal and Trousseau in the Jura) this is full of sappy cherry herbs, as pretty as a footballer’s wife but also very bright.
2. Athénaïs ‘LoveJoy’, Vin de France (de Burgundy), 2014. This has rapidly and recently become the house White, chez Winerackd, due to its lasers and wicked minerals achieved via the medium of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Athénaïs is the négoce label created by Château de Beru in Chablis. If you like your Chenin Blanc the way Guiberteau makes his Saumur Blanc, then this is up your straße.
3. Meinklang, ‘Graupert’ Rot, 2008. “Bring me my Klang!” can be heard broadcasting from the mouths of the inebriated for good reason. This ‘untamed’ Zweigelt from the nether regions of Austria is all silky red brambles and undercarriage. Easily as good as the wines from the better known and much loved Herr. Moric. Good reason indeed to bring it on.
4. Recrue Des Sens – Yann Durieux, ‘DH Blanc’, Vin de France (de Burgundy), 2013. Another VdF Chardonnay from the (ex-)winemaker previously at that great unicorn breeder Prieuré-Roch. I poured a little of this for a respected palate, introducing it as the best White Burgundy I’ve ever had. Once the laughter had stopped, it was agreed that it is extremely fine and complex. With its bruised apples and oxidative grapefruit lanolin this is the opposite of Lovejoy.
5. Le Coste, ‘Rosato’, Lazio, 2015. Hailing from Gradoli (nope, me neither) this rosé which is orange in colour, bridges the gap between pink and red yet is not an Orange wine. From 50+yr old Aleatico vines, made with as little intervention as possible, it is full of perfumed sanguinello. Hashtag win.
6. AmByth Estate, “Princus”, Paso Robles, 2013. Dry farmed (though not in Wales) a kitchen sink of a wine blended from BioDynamic Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier and Rousanne. Just over a thousand bottles produced of this no-sulfur wine, from a list of my least favourite grape varieties, so I have no idea how they’ve made something so epic.
7. Domaine André & Mireille Tissot, ‘La Tour de Couron’, Arbois, 2012. Run by Bénédicte and Stephane this premier league cuvée from one of the Jura’s best producers is another Chardonnay of transfixing proportions, yet different again to the other examples of Chardonnay mentioned. Fresh yet slightly oxidative, complex and long, it’s going to be hard to discover the benefits of ageing.
8. Yann Bertrand, ‘Cuvee de Chaos’, Fleurie, 2014/2015. If you listen carefully, you can hear the passionistas whispering ‘ssshhh’ in case the Beaujolais drinking masses change from their Foillard and Lapierre to this man’s work. Tiny quantities rarely in the UK mean that if Sauron’s eye were to land on him, we’d see even less of his wine in our hands.
9. Lousas (by Envinate), ‘Parcela Seoane,’ Ribeira Sacra, 2014. The best Mencia out there? The best wine from North West Spain? Seems it’s unavoidable to have an Envinate wine on the list. My tasting note at the time was ‘blasphemous’.
10. Champagne Roger Pouillon et Fils, ‘Les Blanchiens’ 2007. An exception to my usual non-dosé BdB rule, this low dose 50/50 blend is multi-layered and was probably enjoyed even more due to the context in which it was drunk (a Viennese garden in early summer). It did cement a burgeoning recognition that this quality of Champagne should be enjoyed as often as possible with fish and chips on a Tuesday.
2015
The year that 67 Pall Mall arrived, the wine world truly embraced Orange, Joe Wadsack returned to TV, I wrote a guest post for Wineanorak and Olly Smith met the Queen.
For some context to the list(s), they are not about rarity or price as I have omitted a beautiful ’64 Borgogno Barolo and a terrific ’93 1er Cru Chambolle from Barthod. The wines made me sit up and take notice rather than smile, wide eyed at my good fortune in good company.
1. Aldo Conterno, ‘Gran Bussia’ Riserva, Barolo, 1985. A bottle which truly reflects everything I love about wine. Most Barolo is drunk too young and there are many producers who are heavy handed with new oak, making Barolo as much of a lottery as Burgundy, but for different reasons. When the stars align, this is what you get. Multi-dimensional, autumnal brambles, texture like silk and fresh as a daisy. Generously shared by Ossie Gray.
2. Duncan Savage, Follow The Line, 2014. Proof that perhaps the best wines coming out of South Africa at the moment are made from Cinsault and or made by Duncan. Introduced to me by Greg Sherwood MW, this blend also featuring 21% Grenache and 21% Syrah is the essence of delicacy, complexity, tension and length.
3. Philippe Pacalet, Charmes-Chambertin GC, 2008. A gift from Paul Van Maaren of Wine By Design and another wake up call for hands off wine making. The masterful Pacalet is producing exciting, pure wines, including Beaujolais. This wine is at the pinnacle and not far in style from the very feminine ’85 Barolo.
4. Lousas, ‘Camino Novo’, 2013. Staying true to form, another Envinate wine, this time from Galicia as opposed to Tenerife. With his partner Alfonso Torrente, wizard Santana (of Suertes del Marques fame) crafts the Mencia grape into bottled wilderness. Drink now or 10 years time.
5. Bérêche et Fils, Campania Remensis, Extra Brut Rosé, NV. Orange in colour, tasting of aged vintage Rosé from some of the best big houses, I wish I could drink it daily. For breakfast.
6. Contra Soarda, Vespaiolo Bianco, 121 bC, 2012. The year of Orange, from the infamous Vespaiolo grape, this wine is a leader of the pack. Glorious drinkability, astringency and complexity, it shows how Orange need not be 1 dimensional.
7. Forjas del Salnes, Finca Genoveva Tinto, 2012. Produced in tiny quantities, 100% whole bunch, another Galician star in both terms of producer and cuvée. From the Caiño grape, this bright cherry and white pepper wine has serious underpinnings of cliff face and lasers. Cos Pes, another wine from this producer also needs a mention.
8. Lino Maga (aka Barbacarlo), “Montebuono”, 1990. Like nothing tasted before, a blend of Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta and Barbera. A wine so alive it can hold a conversation. Fruit, acid, perfume and the gentlest Bootsy Collins influence should inspire a moment of contemplation.
9. Burlotto, ‘Monvigliero’ Barolo, 2011. The third Barolo this year to rekindle my passion (another was Giulia Negri’s La Tartufaia ’10). Foot trodden with whole bunches, exhibiting the mark of a truly great wine that it can be dunk now or in 20 years. Transparent, no new oak, silky yet structured, with all the hallmarks of great Nebbiolo, it will be an exercise in patience.
10. Julien Aviet, Cuvée des Géologues, Arbois, 2012. I first tried this at the beginning of 2015 and it quickly started popping up in just about every social media engaged wine geek’s feed. This is 100% Trousseau at its finest and one of several wines from Jura that could endanger the affordability of great wine.
2014
The New Year’s message was to ask people not to use the word ‘showing’ when they mean ‘tasting’. Wine is not dressage.
2014, was a year to embrace dry Sherry again. And Noble Rot magazine
The top 10 vinous highlights of 2014, in no particular order after No.1 are:
1. Marc Sorrel, “La Greal” Hermitage, 1983. Sublime, very much alive yet elegantly mature like the man who ordered it, Mr David Beresford. Much enjoyed during 1 of many memorable nights at Sager + Wilde.
2. Peter Wetzer, Kekfrankos, 2011. As Jamie Goode once said, I wish more Hungarians would make wine like this. Pure, bright red fruit with acidity and backbone. A favourite.
3. Radikon, Slatnik, 2012. The best vintage yet? You’d have to ask Frederic Grappe, but a stunning skin contact 80% Chardonnay, 20% Tocai Friuli from the master of this style.
4. Suertes del Marques, El Esquilon, 2012/13. Not sure Indigo bring this one in from SdM, but it is a wonderful bright, rustic complex red, made with 15% Tintilla (Trousseau) blended with Listan Negro the local variety worked by the wizard Roberto Santana.
5. Envinate, Taganan ‘Parcela Amogoje’, 2013. More from Roberto mentioned above. A field blend of local varieties, grown on a cliff face (practically), then vinified and blended with great care. Tiny production of an ethereal wine.
6. Daniel Jimenez-Landi, El Reventon, 2011. The top cuvée from a Spanish trail blazer. Needs some serious time in a cellar, but what a wine….. tasting of mountains, the earth, brambles and notes of Donkey Kong.
7. Terroir al Limit – Les Manyes & Terra de Cuques, 2011/12. Have to mention both, as although Les Manyes would be what wine tasted like if DRC made red wine in Priorat, it also attracts a premium price. The beautiful Terra de Cuques, is a blend of dry Pedro Ximenez + Muscat and is so perfumed, complex, moreish and good value.
8. Broc Cellars, Vine Starr Zinfandel, 2012. This year’s shocker, for many in the wine trade. Zinfandel? Really? You could have knocked me over with feather as well as the wine as it is as light and as elegant as one. Fully ripe at 12%?…. hush now……
9. Domaine Lucie, Les Saviaux, 2012. Like pure Syrah? Like no new oak? Like the style of Dard and Ribo? Get in. A wine I put forward for this year’s “Absolutely Cracking Wines” from France event and I believe it was warmly received.
10. Julien Sunier, Fleurie, 2011/12. A delight. One of the best producers of Cru Beaujolais. Purity, complexity, fresh.
2013
The New Year’s message that year was to ask people not to use the word ‘collection’ when they mean ‘selection’.
Wine is not a stamp.
2013, was a year to embrace tension. This word is one of the best I have come across, adopted by my favourite wine merchant, to describe fresh exciting wines, which speak of a place and exhibit vitality. They are most often examples of wine making with minimum intervention.
In no particular order are:
1. Mark Haisma’s Cornas 2010. Mark describes this as one of the 5 best wines he’s ever made and I do not doubt it. The essence of juicy, fresh, earthy, complex Syrah.
2. Dominio do Bibei, Lapola 2011. Usually a weighty complex Godello based wine, the ’11 is the freshest vintage to date, made with a lighter hand and quite an electrifying example of Atlantic influenced wine making.
3. Terroir Al Limit, Torroja 2011. The antithesis of Priorat, a supremely elegant 50/50 blend of Carignan and Garnacha, raised in concrete and large old oak foudres.
4. Bass Phllip, Premium Pinot Noir 2010. A baby given as a gift and drunk with the gifter. A sublime, complex, ethereal wine at the apex of Australian wine making.
5. Thörle, Saulheimer Kalkstein Riesling 2012. From a rising star in the Rheinhessen, a rich, bone dry, super bright Riesling, the wine nut’s favourite grape.
6. Guiberteau, Saumur Blanc 2010. Piercing dry Chenin Blanc from one of the lesser known and best producers in the region. Complex, mineral, long wine.
7. Hervé Souhaut, La Souteronne 2011. Beautiful Gamay from the Ardeche. As un-Beajolais as you can get yet with grip, black fruit and amazing drinkability.
8. Vinochisti, E2, 2010. The Erbaluce grape, grown in Piedmonte, trucked to the home of an English wine maker in Tuscany, of which a good proportion is left on skins for 40 days and the rest for 2-20 days. Rich oxidative characters meet fresh acidity in a wine that is as wacky and wonderful as it sounds.
9. Moric, Burgenland, Blaufränkisch 2011. I wish I’d known about this guy sooner, but this almost Burgundian, unoaked fruity wine ticks all the boxes for me.
10. Hoffman and Rathbone, Rosé Reserve 2010. English wine and especially the sparkling goes from strength to strength, with a few producers rising above the rest. This beautiful wine is made by a craftsman and packaged equally well, reflecting the commitment and appeal.
2012
The New Year’s message that year, was to ask people not to use the word ‘tasting’ when they mean ‘drinking’.
The 2012 list continues to move away from big, extracted, newly oaked wines, in favour of the pursuit of elegance, precision, less alcohol, acidity and fruit that speaks of its origin. More fermentation in concrete and 1000L+ old barrels please.
In no particular order:
1. Domaine de L’R, Chinon, Folies Noyer Verts, 2010. Beautifully made, red fruits and trademark Franc spice, that should age beautifully.
2. Ridge, Estate Cabernet, 2008. I first got into wine by embracing all that is Napa, but have shied away from some of the bolder efforts. For Napa, this Cab is elegance and complexity personified.
3. Kalleske, Barossa, Merchant Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010. This wine is as though some has sprinkled biodynamic fairy dust on what should be a monster. It isn’t and it just glides down. I’d take this over 707, any day.
4. Pithon-Paillé, Anjou, Coteau des Treilles, 2008. All of this producers wines are superb, but this top of the tree effort, is bone dry, apples, honeyed, piercing and complex. Enjoyed with the inimitable Matt Walls, whose face on first sip, was a picture.
5. Daniel Bouland, Morgon, VV, 2009. Jancis beat me to writing about it, but after the Dirty Dozen tasting this year, I grabbed a case. The epitome of the best Beaujolais is now producing. As Will Hargrove (Corney & Barrow) would say, ‘no blue fruit’.
6. Shobbrook Wines, Barossa, Syrah 2010. Astonishing, complex, elegant, totally Un-Shiraz. I’m already a huge fan of the Eden Riesling.
7. Gonzalez-Byass, Fino, Dos Palmas. If Sherry was a religion, this would convert the atheist. On first sip, the words, “No!, shut up” spring to mind. Seasonal limited release in the Autumn.
8. La Rioja Alta, 904, 1998. From one of the finest old school producers, a wine of sheer complexity, red and black fruit, smoke and leather, long, long finish. Divine.
9. Prager, Wachau, ‘Klaus’ Smaragd Riesling, 2008. I’m a big fan of Riesling and GV from Wachau and this one simply knocked my sox off. Weighty, slightly smoky, piercing acidity and length. Up there with Knoll and FX Pichler.
10. Beer – The Rocky Head, Pale Ale. As far as I am concerned, Kernel’s Citra or Double IPA have been leagues ahead of everyone else in the UK craft beer game, but this year, The Rocky Head has produced something as good. Superb complexity, bags of hops, tropical notes and good weight.
2011
It would be easy to include wines 2&3 from the 2010 list, but in the spirit of originality, here are some corkers tasted for the first time in 2011. One mark of a fine wine, is the desire to buy it several times over. Another is that it will give great enjoyment now or in 10 years time.
In no particular order:
1. Domaine Vacheron, Belle Dame 2008. Silky Pinot Noir from Sancerre with no new oak influence. A wine that stands out from the Pinot Noir crowd.
2. Gramercy Cellars, Washington State, Tempranillo 2008/09. A comfortable new home for this Spanish grape. Fruit, grip and freshness.
3. Gonzales Byass, Una Palma, Fino. The trendiest and tastiest bottled gold.
4. Le Soula Rouge 2008. Difficult to choose between the red and white from this terrific SW France estate. Mediterranean wine without the garigue.
5. Jim Barry, Florita, 2008. A benchmark Clare Valley Riesling. Limes, zippy, pith and stones.
6. Jean Foillard, Cote de Py, 2009. Another remarkable Cru Beaujolais. Fruit, depth and silk.
7. Philippe Pichard, Domaine de la Chapelle, L’Arcestral, 2006. Possibly the most surprising wine of the year. Tastes like mature right bank Bordeaux. Glorious.
8. Chateau Rayas, La Pialade, 2006. *Not actually my first taste as this is the wine that re-educated my palate leading me to search for balance, elegance, freshness and fruit as opposed to oaked monsters.
9. Burklin Wolf, Ungeheuer GG, 2010, Pfalz. One of several fantastic Rieslings that highlight the brilliance of the recent German dry vintages. I do seem to prefer the Pfalz though.
10. Clos du Gravillas, Rendez Vous, 2007. A Languedoc blend of 4 grapes showing how biodynamic, handmade wines can shine. A multi-dimensional wine that over delivers for the price.
2010
1. Domaine DuBost, En Brenay, Moulin A Vent, 2009. 12.5% Amazing recovery for the Beaujolais brand this year.
2. Dominio do Bibei, Lalama, 2006. 12.5% A grape no ones heard of from a place no ones heard of making a stunning wine.
3. Rogers & Petersen, Shiraz, 2008. 13.5% This made by Mac Forbes is how to make Aussie Shiraz.
4. Reichsrat Von Buhl, Spätburgunder, 2007/08. 13% German Pinot Noir so light yet complex you wonder how it’s possible.
5. Domaine Mas Theo, Coteaux de Tricastin, 2007. 13% Biodynamic and no oak. More please.
6. John Duvall, Plexus, 2007. 14.5% Should hit you like a hammer, but instead kisses you like an angel. (I nearly put SC Pannell here.)
7. Fromm Winery, Fromm Vineyard, Marlborough, 2005. 14% Very classy Pinot Noir. (I nearly put Domaine Serene here.)
8. Chateau Martet, Graves, 2004. 100% Merlot from the left bank. 13% Quirky and quality.
9. Antonio Futuro, Vinho Verde, Branco, 2009. 12% Can do for Vinho Verde what 09 did for Beaujolais and what I will be drinking after the ice-age.
10. Domaine des Bruyeres, David Reynaud, Crozes-Hermitage, 2009. 13% Biodynamic, juice and earth, no oak and an eye opener.
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